From:Mutt e-mail:pigstye13-A-aol.com
Subject:RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: Electrical issue with 63 scat Date:Sun Jun 12 07:57:17 2016
Response to:21314
Good morning Gene, has the Scat ever actually ran? You say ya
have changed every thing, but I don't see where ya changed
the rotor, (which would have been my first item to check)


----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE FOLLOWS -----
Thanks! We will check that' tomorrow when we look at her
again.

----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE FOLLOWS -----

Make sure the brake light points are open when the ign.
points are closed or it will steel the electric.
----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE FOLLOWS -----
Gene,

One coil/points runs the ignition and stoplight, the other
coil/points runs the horn, headlight and taillight.

So when you hold the horn button while kicking, it shows
that the lighting coil and points are working.

But what about the ignition coil? You can do a rough test
with an ohmmeter - the coil should be neither shorted nor
open. Measure the impedance of the lighting coil. The
ignition coil should be roughly the same. Which I think is
only a couple of ohms.

The coils are different. One has thicker wires and is
designed to handle more current. Physically you can swap
them. Electrically, it might NOT be a good idea. Mutt?
Duane? Is this a good idea?

Just to make sure, have you swapped the points? I've had
some points that looked fine, but won't pass 'lectrikity
even after filing them. Of course an ohmmeter will do it
too.

An ohmmeter will quickly prove out your wiring harness. A
$20 multimeter from Radio Shack or an auto parts store is
one of the best tools around!

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