From:Gene undrwood e-mail:Gene_underwood-A-hotmail
Subject:RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: Electrical issue with 63 scat Date:Sun Jun 12 11:45:00 2016
Response to:21318

Mutt. This is one of the motors you restored for me three or four years ago.
I have never started it, in fact I just got around to finishing putting the bike
together. The horns works only during the process of kicking the bike over,
and it's if I hold in the button while I'm kicking., and it sounds like a weak
pulsing horn at that time. I will try unhooking that wire and see what that
Gene, I should have read every reply. I see where ya say the
horn works. Unhook the wire that goes from the upper coil to
the horn and see if ya get any spark

Thanks! We will check that' tomorrow when we look at her


Make sure the brake light points are open when the ign.
points are closed or it will steel the electric.

One coil/points runs the ignition and stoplight, the other
coil/points runs the horn, headlight and taillight.

So when you hold the horn button while kicking, it shows
that the lighting coil and points are working.

But what about the ignition coil? You can do a rough test
with an ohmmeter - the coil should be neither shorted nor
open. Measure the impedance of the lighting coil. The
ignition coil should be roughly the same. Which I think is
only a couple of ohms.

The coils are different. One has thicker wires and is
designed to handle more current. Physically you can swap
them. Electrically, it might NOT be a good idea. Mutt?
Duane? Is this a good idea?

Just to make sure, have you swapped the points? I've had
some points that looked fine, but won't pass 'lectrikity
even after filing them. Of course an ohmmeter will do it

An ohmmeter will quickly prove out your wiring harness. A
$20 multimeter from Radio Shack or an auto parts store is
one of the best tools around!

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