Subject:RE: RE: RE: fork tube service Date:Tue Dec 10 10:46:57 2013
Response to:19051
Yep, I do as Bill says. Ya want to see just how worn out some of these tubes/sliders are? You can check 2 different ways.
Sit on your bike and push the front wheel against a wall. If you notice that the sliders don't move up and down, but rather notice that the wheel moves backwards towards the bike and the sliders ain't moving, you are a good candidate for this service. Also, you can stand the bike up straight and place the wheel between your knees and hold it. Now twist the handlebars. If the wheel stays put and the forks turn, you are also candidate. It doesn't make a whole lot of sense, to straighten and re-bush the tubes, if the sliders are worn out (which they will be). Ya see, if ya install new bushings, and the i.d. is sized back to the standard 1.000" and your sliders measure .945 in the area which rode in the bushings, you have 1/16" clearance. It doesn't sound like 1/16" is much, but it is WAY too much.
The sliders need to be re-tubed. If you are handy and have a torch and a lathe, you can do this job your self. Early sliders have a screw in top, later slider tops are pressed in and sweated. For the early sliders, just unscrew the cap, insert the lowest part of the slider into your vise and tighten securely. Get your torch and heat up the area where the tube meets the casting. You'll see the brass start to melt. When ya do, simply twist the tube and pull up. The tube will come out. Then go and buy your self a 2½ foot piece of 1.000" DOM steel tubing with a 3/32" wall. Measure the length of the old tube and cut your new tube to match. Next, thread one end of the new tube with the
proper tap about 3/4" deep. Next, press the new tube into the casting until it stops. Now sweat the tube into place. I use 1/16" bronze tig rod, but brass brazing rod works fine too. Wait till everything cools back to room temp, then blast off all the excess brass and wire brush and re-plate. Also you'll have to locate and drill and weld in the brake stop pin in the right slider (if it ain't a 55-56 B ).This is basically the same for the later sliders, minus the threaded end.


as for the seals on the bottom of tube they are more of a wipper to keep dirt out. not so much for sealing oil in.
they wipe sliders from dirt. as for cost not sure, I thought maybe exchange send your tube in I send a set out then Iam not pushed to get your tubes done. then I could end up with lot of unrepairable tubes! you guys tell me what you want do you want your tubes repaired, or will you send me good cores and do exchange?

as far as sliders Mutt says he replaces the tubes. I will do this some day if I ever run out of good sliders to run.
a good set of bushings and sliders, then ride the snot out of it for the next 20 year before you do it agian!

Billy, any idea of the cost for straightening and re-bushing might run? Do
you have a way to deal with wear on the fork sliders (if that is what they are



wondering if there is any intrest, I have straighted tubes with in .010 I did
one this moring that was .190 tir and got it within .006 any where on that
tube (checked on a bench center) also pulled old bushings and made new
ones with more bearing surface 3.0" on top and 1.5" on bottom. just
checking intrest right now. I think they came pretty sweet. currently I have
four sets of straight tubes, two sets have new bushings ( have to get more
bushing material)

thanks Billy