|Subject:||RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: RE: Electrical issue with 63 scat||Date:||Sun Jun 12 16:44:33 2016|
I've replaced the spark plug, spark plug wire, external coil ( after sanding |
the outside of the coil and the bracket and the bolts, and verifying that it
grounds), condenser, both internal coils, and the stop lamp points. I have
not replCed the ignition points., nor the rotor, nor the wiring harness ( the
harness on the bike is brand new). The horns squeaks when button is
depressed whil kicking over the bike, and when I held horn knife terminal
end of wire to other coil, it still squeaked, thereby probing there's power
coming thru both internal coils.. And parts I've replCed came off my 62
pacer but, which ran before I swapped out parts. I've considered running
individual wires everywhere just to bypass wiring harness and thereby
eliminating it as the culprit.
Interesting enough, the horn doesn't squeak on the running pacer but when
I depress the horn button while kicking over the bike.
Thanks for your response, if ya get any others ideS let me know. Gene
----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE FOLLOWS -----
Let's review the configuration from top to bottom.
The top coil is the headlight/taillight/horn coil.
The top circuit breaker is the ignition circuit breaker.
The breaker cam is a two-piece unit. One cam drives the ignition breaker
and the other drives the stop light breaker. They should go together only
The bottom circuit breaker is the stop light circuit breaker.
The bottom coil is the Ignition/Stop light coil.
The simplified schematic show below may be of some use in tracing the
wiring, as the regular wiring diagram is somewhat confusing. You may
want to disconnect parts of your harness, and test-wire the ignition
according to the simplified schematic.
The horn sounding while kicking indicates that the lighting/horn coil is good.
It's also a good indication that the rotor is good. I don't think the rotor can
be partially bad. Even if possible, it is the hardest thing to swap, so I would
leave it until all else fails.
Is it correct that you've swapped out both points, the condensor, both
internal coils, and the external coil with known-good ones? That only
leaves a few things - the cam, the wiring, and the rotor. (And the spark
plug, which I assume you've swapped with a nice new one).
Verify that the 2-piece cam is installed correctly, and that both points open
at different times.
Verify the wiring harness matches the simplified schematic. Verify using
the ohmmeter on your new $20 multimeter that the wires are good.
Run a wire from the external coil case to an engine ground. Is the external
coil case really grounded?
Disconnect the stop light by either disconnecting the wire, or by putting
tape on the lower circuit breaker. If the stop light wiring were somehow
totally grounded, it might prevent the ignition from firing (shouldn't but...)
Using the AC Volts feature of your multimeter (hopefully it does AC volts).
Hook to the hot side of the horn and to an engine ground. Crank the motor.
You should see the needle deflect. Try again at the terminal of the ignition
circuit breaker (top), and the stop light circuit breaker (bottom). Does the
At this point, it's either the rotor, or it's still somehow mis-wired.
Let us know what happens!