|Subject:||RE: RE: RE: gas cap seal||Date:||Tue Jan 30 15:20:09 2018|
Yep, put the screws in a dry tank.
I used an old rusty cap to close the filler hole - just to not lose too much of the solutions. I was doing a tank that had been stripped of paint, so a little of the stuff on the outside wouldn't hurt.
You want to do the actual sealer application with the hole open, so you can see how well/fast the sealer is flowing. Once the sealer has covered an area, it'll stick there. You need to keep turning the tank so the stripper flows onto every surface and nook and cranny.
I don't think I personally would do this on a painted tank, since I am basically a slob. I forget exactly what's in the POR cleaner solutions, but rust-stripper (solution #2?) is usually phosphoric acid or something similar. Not very paint-friendly.
If I was doing a painted tank, I guess I'd find a rusty old cap, or find one at the auto parts store that fits the hole. Plug up any vent holes with 2-part epoxy. Cover the tank around the filler and petcock hole with painter's tape for any drips. Try filling the tank with plain water, slosh it around a bit, drain through the petcock hole, rinse with water, and see it it can be done without getting any drips on the paint.
Drying a painted tank might require some additional care. The heat gun can get the metal pretty hot, especially the tunnel, which fortunately will never be seen. You'll have to turn the heat gun on low (or use your wife's hair drier) and not leave it on for too long at a time. Hair dryers usually have a fan-only setting, so you could heat for awhile and then fan-only.
I'd try to simulate the sealer step with plain water too. You really gotta turn the tank this way and that to get the sealer everywhere.
After the trial run, you should have a pretty good idea of whether your paint will survive the real thing.
Let us know how it works out!
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When you did the handful of screws did you do it with a dry tank?
And given the gas cap is vented, how did you temporarily seal it for the